
via flickr.com(Image: Barbara Martins Coelho, 2009)
It’s often said dogs are reflections of ourselves. I often wonder how working dogs are influenced by our societal needs, so oftentimes, I tend to look at the diet of the locals as well as their daily lives.
It’s easy enough to figure out what were the mainstays of the elite upper-classes who owned the estates in the United Kingdom; the powerful water dogs used by fishermen in Newfoundland; and which iconic dogs could be found among pastoralists in Central Asia; however there is little or no information that could be found which suggest a landrace, if any, my ancestors utilized.
My ancestors? The Russian Mennonites: the ones who originated in the Netherlands, found themselves in West Prussia, fled to the Ukraine under Catherine the Great then sought out a better life in Western Canada. So I always wondered what kind of dogs they owned, whether they brought the dogs with them or they simply bought from the neighbours. Sometimes I wonder if they brought the dogs with them on their perilous journey to Canada, as doubtful as it may be.
Supposedly, an English-German pictorial dictionary for Amish children, published in 1890, contained two drawings of dogs at the turn of the century. However Amish are of Swiss and Alsatian origins, and they settled in Eastern United States and Ontario in the 18th century. However the drawings do give us an insight of what dogs were a hundred and twenty years ago.

(Image cropped via etsy.com. Illustrator: Unknown)
(Image cropped via etsy.com. Illustrator: Unknown)
The closest in living history I could relate to is in the 1950s and 1960s, my mother’s family had a shepherd-type, in which mom thinks it’s a German Shepherd, named “Nipper.” However that isn’t much to go on since German Shepherds were once considered as the perfect family dog back then. Instead, we are talking about 150-some years ago just before breed fanciers became prominent influence in modern puppy-purchasing. Long before Rin-Tin-Tin as well.
In absence of records of a descriptive landrace my ancestors could had possibly worked alongside with or found as companions, I decided to analyze the diet and the daily lives of the Mennonites in South Russia [present day Ukraine] between 1800s and early 1900s to see what kind of values instilled and shaped a dog.
via picasaweb.google.com (Image: Tom Ratzloff, Map of Molotscha Mennonite Colony in Ukraine)
There was a record in 1914 published by the Mennonite Historical Society of B.C. detailing the menu of a Russian Mennonite during late summer. Note the heavy usage of eggs and dairy. Obviously owning meat cattle was not in the best interest of the ancestral Mennonites; especially since if any meat was served, it is usually pork.
| July, August, September |
| Sunday |
Breakfast |
White coffee, tea, fruit Platz[1] |
|
Lunch |
Roast mutton with fruit, potatoes, fruit juices, bread |
|
Fesper[2] |
Tea, fruit juice, rhubarb Platz |
|
Supper |
Buttersuppe[3], buttered brown bread |
| Monday |
Breakfast |
White coffee, fruit Platz, Ruehrei[4] |
|
Lunch |
Kjieltje[5], fried ham, brown bread, watermelons, melons, Bulki[6] |
|
Fesper |
White coffee, white bread with rhubarb marmalade |
|
Supper |
Cooked barley porridge, butter, brown bread |
| Tuesday |
Breakfast |
White coffee, Ruehrei, white bread, syrup |
|
Lunch |
Green bean soup[7] and Schnetki[8] |
|
Fesper |
Watermelons, melons, Bulki, syrup |
|
Supper |
Buttermilk Mus[9], buttered bread, eggs |
| Wednesday |
Breakfast |
White coffee, Schnetki, fried potatoes, brown bread |
|
Lunch |
Rhubarb Mus, fried ham, brown bread |
|
Fesper |
Watermelons, melons, Bulki |
|
Supper |
Cherry Mus, fried potatoes, brown bread |
| Thursday |
Breakfast |
White coffee, white bread, marmalade |
|
Lunch |
Cherry Wareniki[10] with sauce (sunflower oil with cream) |
|
Fesper |
Watermelons, melons, Bulki, butter |
|
Supper |
Boiled potatoes in jackets with gravy (sunflower oil with cream) |
| Friday |
Breakfast |
White coffee, white bread, syrup, fried potatoes, brown bread |
|
Lunch |
Rhubarb Piroschki[11], thick sour milk |
|
Fesper |
Watermelons, melons, Bulki, butter |
|
Supper |
Sweet boiled milk with bread, Glomskuchen[12] |
| Saturday |
Breakfast |
White coffee, white bread, Ruehrei, brown bread |
|
Lunch |
Beans fried in onion fat, clabbered milk, brown bread |
|
Fesper |
Watermelons, melons, Bulki, butter |
|
Supper |
Armer Ritter[13], sweet milk with bread crumbs |
via mhsbc.com(modified for footnoting purposes)
In Roots and Branches, the editor noted: “150 chickens… …for summer, down to 75 in winter, by spring to 40;” confounded, she wondered where the chickens went.[14] The thing is what Americans serve as “chicken noodle soup” has its roots within the Mennonites and the Dutch, and oftentimes my family would prepare this during the fall and winter to use up “old chicken.” Second of all, meat is usually seasonal. As farmers do inventory in the fall, they try to figure out how many they can sustain through the winter, butcher the ones who are not strong enough and keep the most productive ones for the spring. Thirdly, meat is often sold at the marketplaces to those who could afford such a luxury. Fourthly, if there was too much meat to be processed after the bulk was canned, frozen or sold– butchered meats were sometimes used to feed the pigs or the dogs. So I am not quite sure why the translator and the editor are speculating on records. Seems like a routine thing to me.
Either way, based on the records, under the assumption the Mennonite livelihoods’ were not centric around meat livestocks, we can conclude the dogs they kept probably were probably more along the line of doing simple field-to-field driving, guarding the livestocks, controlling vermin, and keeping the children entertained. This sort of lifestyle is consistent with the personality of the breeds originating in Central and Eastern Europe. Since dairy and eggs were precious commodities, we are probably looking at a livestock guardian dog or a herding dog with medium energy, but high guard awareness. We could also be looking at a catch-dog, however that is unlikely since pork is not an everyday occurrence.
However knowing farmers, it could be a random dog that was good enough to keep vermin off the land; or much to the dismay of the working-class breedists, the dogs could simply be “pets” to keep the women company in the kitchen and in the fields.

via flickr.com(Image: Alix Kroege, Chortitza Settlement 2006)
Footnotes
1. The equivalent to platz in the English-speaking world is the coffee cake.
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2. ”Platter.” Usually vegetables, the occasional fruits, cold cuts and breads make up a platter.
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3. ”Butter soup.” It’s a generic recipe which calls for roots vegetables with bits of herbs, a smack of butter and some cream.
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4. “Scrambled eggs.”
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5. Better known as kielkje, or “noodles.” This dish is usually made from a dough cut into strips and boiled in water.
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6. Polish loanword for “bread rolls” or “steamed buns.”
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7. Probably what we called jreine schaublezuppe.
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8. “Biscuits.” Any kind of biscuit is called a schnetki. Modern day useage of the word no longer resembles the curled up pastry borrowed from the Ukraine.[Source] Schnetki is derived from the word German word schnecke, meaning “snail.”
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9. Being Deaf, I had a hard time figuring out what the author meant by “mus.” However since Plautdietsch lacks standardized spellings and the written language is usually read as pronounced, he probably meant mous, which is how my grandmother spelled it. It’s better known to English speakers as mousse.
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10. An East European dumpling made with wheat dough, usually stuffed with potato. Dumplings stuffed with fruits such as raspberries, blueberries, apples, cherries, plums were considered as dessert. In mainstream Canada and among Polish Americans, this is known as “pierogi.” “Pierogi” is a Canadian English corruption of the Ukrainian-Canadian word: “pyrohy.” Wareniki is probably a Plautdietsch adaptation of the Ukrainian word varenyky when the Mennonites settled in South Ukraine. There are numerous spellings for varenyky, but they’re all pronounced the same.
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11. “Stuffed buns.” Usually these buns are stuffed with vegetables, fruits or meat before being baked or fried. Transliteration of the Ukrainian word pyrizhky.
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12. “Cottage cheese cake.” Kuchen is German for “cake,” and gloms in Plautsdietsch is “cottage cheese,” supposedly borrowed from Polish or Russian.[Source]
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13. The North American equivalent to this is the French toast.
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14. Pork is and was the meat of choice among Russian Mennonites east of the Canadian Prairie provinces. Within the Prairies provinces, beef is the meat of preference. Although mutton is also mentioned, like chicken, it is probably more related to the season.
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References
Mennonite Girls Can Cook. “Authentic Schhnetki.” Accessed January 16, 2011. http://mennonitegirlscancook.blogspot.com/2009/05/authentic-schnetki.html[8]
Price, Louise B. “The Way We Ate in 1914.” Roots and Branches 12, no. 2 (2006): 11. Accessed January 16, 2011. http://www.mhsbc.com/news/v12n02/p11.htm.[13]
Thiessen, Jack. “Visitez ma tente.” Accessed January 16, 2011. http://ereimer.net/Thiessen/Talk-given-at-Madison.htm[12]
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